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Jamie View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 September 2019 at 8:51am
Hi Everyone,

I had an issue with my engine/saildrive over the weekend and I am looking for some insight.

I was motoring back to my mooring any the boat lost forward thrust.   The engine was on...had rpms etc.  but it just wasn't moving.

I got back to the mooring and dove down to take a look at the saildrive...I was thinking a big bunch of seaweed was caught between the saildrive and the keel or something.

When I dove down there was no seaweed.   The prop opened and closed easily...no issues.   The boat is going in and out of gear just fine...but no matter how much you increase the throttle (forward and backward) the boat barely moves.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks.
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Ron Waterson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 September 2019 at 9:46am
Jamie,

Old Gori Prop?  They have a sacrificial part within that is intended to save the sail drive in the event of something suddenly prohibiting the prop from turning...aground...prop wrap.  I think they can also give out with time.  Yours could be 30+ years old and has simply failed from aging.  Mine reacted the same way as you describe after a mild prop wrap.  Non repairable to my knowledge.  New prop is the fix.  FYI - When I purchased my new prop, I was told the sacrificial part was no longer used in the replacement props.  

You may want to look at this post.

http://laser28.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=721&KW=&PID=3156&title=prop-problem#3156

  Ron
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 September 2019 at 10:51am
Good call Ron, although all L28's rec'd the DV10 engine the props supplied originally with the engine were the DV8 Gori props even though Gori later on started supplying a DV10 prop with a slightly bigger pitch. Either prop works well. Here are the updated links

These are the two versions available from them







Edited by Bill Layton - 09 September 2019 at 10:53am
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Jamie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jamie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 September 2019 at 11:42am
Thanks Guys,

I am hoping to squeeze a few more weeks out of the season.  

So I guess a haul is going to be required.

Any idea the labor to replace this?  Is it just installed from under the boat when hauled?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jamie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 September 2019 at 11:44am
Also, would I have a LH or RH installation?

Thanks,
Jamie
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 September 2019 at 1:04pm
The links show that both props are LH rotation... this is correct. Labor once boat is hauled is approx 30 min.
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Jamie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jamie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 September 2019 at 1:38pm
Thanks Bill,

One last engine question.   My engine does not shut off with any consistency.    There seems to be an issue with the key switch.

Do you know where I may find a replacement?

Thanks again.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 September 2019 at 5:40pm
Jamie,

If you meant labor costs on the prop, it's really a pretty easy do it yourself job.  Have a zinc ready to replace old one while you have the prop off.  

  Ron  


Edited by Ron Waterson - 09 September 2019 at 5:41pm
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 September 2019 at 10:24am
Jamie, Engine shutoff is driven by a solenoid that shuts off the fuel. You may have a faulty electrical connection. Check that you have proper voltage at the solenoid when the key is rotated to shutoff. Check that the solenoid fires properly when voltage is applied. John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2019 at 11:51am
Hi John and Jamie.  I just started having issues turning the engine on, if I move the key around it works.  So if I understand John you are suggesting the solenoid could be the culprit?  If so where and how do I measure this and is there a replacement?  Thanks!
Bill Ryan,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2019 at 12:20pm
This is not a solenoid problem it's an ignition problem. Look behind the ign panel at the wiring to be sure all connectors are corrosion free and that each terminal is on tightly. If this doesn't fix it you'll need to repalce the ignition switch. Not hard to do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2019 at 3:42pm
Thanks Bill, will go check the behind panel stuff this weekend.  If I need to replace is this something I can find locally?   Or do you have a magic link to share?  Smile
Bill Ryan,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2019 at 4:15pm
http://www.lsm-diesel.dk/2012/bestil.php?lang=uk&txk=initshop&n0=4&n1=Partnr.&n2=Beskrivelse&n3=Pris%20ekskl.%20moms&n4=Antal

Best place to buy Bukh parts from.. they are in Denmark and charge approx. $50. for shipping

Also be sure of the obvious things... like loose battery terminals or where the batt cables bolt onto the engine. Be sure all connections are good.


Edited by Bill Layton - 26 September 2019 at 4:17pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2019 at 4:33pm
I did check the battery but not where is attaches to the engine, will check that as well as behind the key switch. 

When I checked the site you shared and searched for ignition switch these 4 came up:
Partno. Description/use partno.Price excl.
V.A.T
QuantityOrder
008E7599  IGNITION SWITCH(fTURNBUTTON) 1,550.93 < name="order4" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8pt;" ="text" size="3" value="1" maxlenght="2">< name="OK" ="submit" value="OK">

Z002199-0  IGNITION SWITCH432.83 < name="order4" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8pt;" ="text" size="3" value="1" maxlenght="2">< name="OK" ="submit" value="OK">

2179293-5  IGNITION SWITCH RED ASSY391.01 < name="order4" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8pt;" ="text" size="3" value="1" maxlenght="2">< name="OK" ="submit" value="OK">

2180780-0  IGNITION SWITCH RED ASSY568.74 < name="order4" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8pt;" ="text" size="3" value="1" maxlenght="2">

Am I searching fo rthe right thing here?  I think ignition switch and I see the part where the key goes in and turns - are these them?
Bill Ryan,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2019 at 5:11pm
You need to use the correct part number first

in the parts manual it says it's 552K0006
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2019 at 6:27pm
Yikes!!!
Price information & on-line order page
Partno. Description/use partno.Price excl.
V.A.T
QuantityOrder
R552K0006  KEYSWITCH 674.60 < name="order4" style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: 8pt;" ="text" size="3" value="1" maxlenght="2">

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 September 2019 at 6:43pm
Pricing quoted on a site in Denmark are  in DKK (Danish Krone) Exchange that into US dollars and it's roughly $98. US dollars. Otherwise remove the switch and take to some auto stores to see if they can replace it.

If you can find a part number on it or a name google it to see where else it might be sold.


Edited by Bill Layton - 26 September 2019 at 6:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 October 2019 at 11:37am
So I checked and saw no corrosion and every connection was tight so I am guessing the switch might need to be replaced. Is there a schematic (or directions) on how to take it apart?  It's probably simple but my skill set isn't the best (Murphy has nothing on the Ryan's!)
Bill Ryan,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 October 2019 at 11:53am
This is a part that BUKH purchases so no diagrams are offered. If there is any identifying info on the switch perhaps you could google it and see what comes up. Or just take it apart and try to fix it. At the age of 35 I'd be inclined to replace it.

You didn't state what was happening when it didn't start. Other than moving the key made it work. Was the starter not cranking and then after wiggling the key the starter would crank? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 October 2019 at 12:04pm
It cranked but realllllllly slow like it wasn't going to start.  When I returned key to neutral position and jiggled it and turn on again then the normal sounds and start occurred.
Bill Ryan,

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