Hull Joint Rub Rail

Just curious if anyone has used a different solution other than the 2770 section from Wefco Rubber. If so let me know who and how it worked for you.

David, just cut out the bad part and heat up the remaining rubrail and it'll stretch easily to the original length. Good luck!

Hello All,
Has anyone saved their removed original hull joint rub rail? I'm looking to patch in only a short section of my gray rub rail. Patch does not warrant replacing all of it.
I would gladly purchase this from you and arrange shipping. Please help me out if you can.
Thanks,
Dave

I'm not a fan of 5200; I've been using BoatLIFE Life-Calk (although I have had to do some touch-ups)
My memory is that one tube will do most of one side. Then a 3rd tube is needed to finish the sides and the back.
sj

I also used the same cross-section from Wefco. Works well - I agree with Frank's comments on installation - a little planning reduces a lot of grief!

Ron,
As you know I used the section 2770. It has worked very well, and no I never looked at the 0411G. The 2770 may look a little wimpy in the Wefco website sketches, but it is actually very close to the original once it is spread out and on the boat. Also, one will find places on the flange joint where the flange is substantially less deep. This creates a problem because the new rub rail can't be well seated onto the flange and won't bond well. I pre-fit the entire rail before gluing and used a small sanding drum on a Dremmel to trim the inside lip of the rubber so that it would come all the way on to its final seating place so the sealant/adhesive could do its job.

Mine continues to work well. About every two years I wipe it down with some paint thinner and then coat it with Armourall, the tire dressing compound. This helps preserve the rubber against UV deterioration.

Also, in the article I posted, I spoke of using 3M 4200. I would now definitely use 5200. Also, I would use some tiny little #6 stainless counter-sinking wood screws screwed directly in the middle of the rail into the edge of the flange to locate and hold the rubber in place. You may elect to remove them after the 5200 sets, or you may leave them it. They are not noticeable.

I may have mentioned in the article that if I were doing it again I would take the time to build out the flange where it protrudes from the hull less than the average so that I did not have to trim the rail. The trimming is not noticeable to the eye, but it is inconvenient. The bond is reliant upon the rubber extrusion being set all the way home. That is because the staples and pop rivets that hold the flange together stick out quite a bit particularly on the bottom. This prevents the bottom flap from lying tight to the flange, so the adhesive in there (on the sides) does not make full contact with the flange as those protrusions hold it out. That means that you are much relying on the center interior of the rail for bonding to the outer lip of the flange. I think the heavy 0411G section would be very difficult to work with to get the result that will make you happy.

I have some extra of the 2770 section. I could cut off a sample piece and send it to you for you to touch and feel. Somewhere I think I provided a photo of the original flange section directly next to the 2770.

Some time after I did the project, Bill Layton did much research for suitable section to replace the rail on a boat that had been re-built after the trailer broke loose from the tow truck, and he ended up also using the 2770 section.

Good Luck with it. It certainly serves to "pick-up" the overall appearance of the boat.

It looks like wood to me.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ensignyachts/5940341015/in/photostream/

Damn is she pretty!

With Bill's help, I'm trying herein to post some pics of my recent rub rail mitering, etc. There is also a photo of the hull flange in on of the areas where it is less than 24mm from the hull.














Edited by Bill Layton - 14 October 2009 at 12:21pm

I ordered 70' and have 16 1/2' left over. I never actually measured the length they sent me. Regarding section size, the Laser rail is the very small and it is difficult enough finding anything that small yet with a mouth large enough to snap over the flange. If I can find your email address, I will send you a comparison photo of the old rail and new rail sections side-by-side. They are very similar.

Anyone you ask regarding sealant/adhesive will advise you to go straight to 5200. I used 4800 because it is cold here. It flurried all day today, and 4800 cures in 24 hours whereas 5200 cures in 7 days. The 4800 cleans up okay using Goof Off, but not as easily as Sikaflex 921, but then again that is a 72 hours material. It is best to work clean. I only had to spot clean the boat sides and rail in a couple of places, and this is usually owing to allowing the outside of the nozzle to get dirty, or having an unsteady hand when sticking the nozzle inside the rail while holding it from the end of a caulking gun. You are up on a ladder, holding the rail in one hand and trying to hold the mouth open, and then sticking the nozzle inside the mouth which is quite small. Perhaps a shot of Tequila may have been good just to steady things a little.